Char Dham Yatra – Pilgrimage to the Himalayas
Day 13 – Towards Gangotri
That place which has been accorded the status of verily a Heaven on Earth; where mountains, rivers & canals abound and the mountain peaks touch the skies, where there are lush green forests all around and there is only word that echoes in the mind – Beauty! To such a beautiful place called Harsil, we came yesterday. All of you have drowned yourselves in the magnificence and beauty of Nature all around.
Now get ready quickly, all of you! Today, we shall tour the villages around Harsil. Life acquires a new meaning and perspective when we have the Darshan of these places swathed in the enthralling beauty of Nature. Where, just a short while ago life seemed like a house full of troubles and sorrows, now having come and seen these beautiful places, every place and moment in life feels so happy and joyful. Truly speaking, the very purpose and perspective of living itself undergoes a change. Such is the power, elan and vitality of Nature.
Let us move forward …
Dharali
Dharali is a small village located about 3 kms from Harsil. This village, situated on the banks of the sacred Ganga is surrounded by the Himalayan Cedar trees. Tourists can see many apple orchards and fields of red Runner Beans too. One can also view the beautiful snow laden peaks of many mountains, from here. This place is famous for its Kalpkedar Shiv Temple, that has been built like the main temple in Kedarnath.
Kalpkedar Temple
In Dharali village, at a small distance of approx. 50 mtrs is the Kalpkedar Temple. The Kalpkedar temple is built in the mould and style of the ‘Katyur’ hilly tradition of design, architecture and construction. The Sanctum Sanctorum here is 7 mtrs below the main entrance. There is a white Sphatik idol of Lord Shiva here. Outside this temple are engravings and carvings in stone, of a Lion, Nandi the bull, a Shiv Ling and a pitcher or a jug. The locals, upon sighting the temple peak jutting out of the earth on the banks of Ganga, dug 12 feet deep into the earth, to gain access to it and channel a pathway to its main entrance. The presence of this ancient Kalpkedar temple is a testimony to the historical importance of Dharali. As a matter of fact, Dharali – the final halt on the route to Gangotri, is today struggling for its identity. Whereas, according to historical facts and records, there existed a constellation of 240 temples here. Alluding to the antiquity of the temples in Dharali, the elders of the village say that a number of carved stones and rocks were retrieved from the earth, 20 years back. It is believed that Pandavas had collected all these carved & engraved rocks here, when they were en route to the Himalayas. Over time, the temples were built using these carved stones and rocks. In the olden days, Jagadguru Shri Adi Shankaracharya during the course of His mission to re-establish Sanathana Dharma, is also said to have built a large group of temples here. This group consisted of a constellation of 240 temples. However, in the beginning of the 19th century, owing to the floods that arose from the river Kheer Ganga (in those times, the water of the Ganges at this point appeared milky white in colour) originating from the Shrikanth mountain, many temples were buried in the rubble and wreckage of thefloods. These temples are made in the ‘Katyur’ hill tradition of design & architecture, which is a local expertise of Dharali. Having had the Darshan of the very sacred and beautiful Dharali village and the Kalpkedar Temple, let us walk ahead for another kilometer, to Mukba village.
Mukba
We are going to the village called Mukba, also known as Mother Ganga’s parental home and village. Mukba is located on the hill to the other side of the broad dyke of Ganga. There is an iron cable stayed bridge which we will have to cross on foot only. This bridge begins to shake and swing if people run over it or even walk on it as a close group. As such, most of the bridges in the Himalayas after Uttarkashi, are one way bridges erected by the Army Engg. Corps. They are typically made of girders, tin sheets & cables.
Anyways, we are now climbing up along an unlaid & unmetalled footpath. The stones in this region are quite sharp edged and do not wear down or corrade easily. The Panchayat and the locals have lined both edges of this dirt track with these stones and, using slices of gravel with iron cables to tie them together, they have prepared a pathway. The wind blows very strong here because of the broad river bank and the high altitude. All the houses are built at a low altitude, well louvred for ventilation, designed and constructed in the local hill tradition, using carved wood. The floor in all the houses is very cold due to the snowy mountains and therefore, warm rugs are spread on the floor even in the month of May.
Mukba is essentially a village inhabited by Pandits. It is a very beautiful village, having a temple of Mother Ganga. In the month of Oct, the idol of Mother Ganga is brought from Gangotri to the temple over here, for a period of 6 months. The doors of the temple in Gangotri are thus closed for the ensuing 6 months beginning October every year. The Mother’s idol is brought to this village in a palanquin, in exactly the same manner as a daughter is brought to her parental home with a lot of pomp, splendor and gaiety. The occasion turns into a huge festival with song, dance and music. The Indian army on this occasion, even sets up a kitchen and organizes a sumptuous feast in the village. The temple over here is built in the same mould as the one in Gangotri.
(To be continued …)